An Italian Feast Paired With Beers

A few weekend past, some friends and I did what I enjoy most, cooking a nice meal, and joking around.  I chose to do a taste of  Italy at harvest time, to be paired with a variety of beers (Belgian, French Canadian, Italian).

Menu

Antipasti – insalata di pomodori con bocconcini y prosciutto – Birra Duvel
Primi – Bucantini all’Amatriciana – Birra Moretti
Secondi – Salsicca all’Uva e Spinaci alla Genovese – Birra Blanche de Chambly
Dolci – Ricotta con Mielle, Pesche e Canella – Birra Pecheresse

Spaghetti in Tomato and Apple Sauce

I've been watch catching a number of episodes of Lidia's Italy on TLN, and she was exploring the food of  Trentino and Alto-Adige, and a very interesting and unique dish is Spaghetti con salsa di Pomodorie e Mele.  I started with Lidia's recipe but modified it for my taste so here my take on a Trentino fall classic.

1 28oz can San Marzano tomatoes

3/4 cup diced celery

3/4 cup dice carrot 

1 cup diced onion

1 lb, Granny Smith apples (or similar), cored, peeled, and shredded

6 Tbls  EVO

3 Cloves garlic minced or pressed 

1/4 cup Parmesan cheese + 1/4cup at the table 

1/4 cup chopped parsley 

Salt and pepper to taste  

1 lb Spaghetti 

Bucatini all’Amatriciana

I regularly catch Lidia's Italy on TLN, Lidia  was talked about the Lazio Region of Italy, and she proceeded to make Bucantini All'Amatriciana based upon a dish from Amatrice. Originally Lidia used Guanciale, which is hard for me to find so I used pancetta, so here is my rendition of her dish:

Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 Medium Onions, Quartered and thinly sliced
6 Cloves Garlic, sliced
1 28oz Can Plum Tomatoes passed through a food mill, (preferably San Marzano)
1/4lb Pancetta, 1/4" slices chopped.
1/2 tsp Peperoncino ( more or less to taste)
1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano
1/4 cup Flat Leaf Parsley Chopped
1lb of Bucantini or Perciatelli
Salt and Black Pepper to taste

I used a technique I saw on the program, put the sliced onions in a hot pan, with some water (I added a 1/4 cup of water + 1/2 cup white wine), to steam the onions and cook them without colouring them.  Once the water has evaporated, move the onions to one side of your skillet and add a couple tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, add the garlic and peperoncino.  Once the garlic has some colour, mix it with the onions and clear a space for the pancetta.  Once the pancetta is rendered add the milled tomatoes with the liquid from the can, reduce the pan to a simmer.  As a side I add a couple teaspoons of the parsley stems finely minced for extra flavour while the sauce simmers.  Taste for seasoning, adjust pepper and possibly peperoncino to taste.

Fast Flavourful Chickpeas

Sorry for not being a good host and providing at least a weekly note or idea; I'm hopefully back now and can rebuild my readership.  I've been playing with some of the America's Test Kitchen recipe magazines, and came across their Pan-Roasted Chickpeas recipe.  Here's my tasty spin on it…

Holiday Eve Suppers Amongst Friends-- A bounty of seafood.

Cooking for friends is a good way for me to pass time.  This holiday season I've done a couple of nice plates that I thought I might share.

Christmas Eve -- Squid ink linguine, with Seared scallops and lobster tail medallions.
Cook squid ink linguine per normal instructions.  I sauced it with an anchovy sauce.  Seared off the scallops and lobster tail.  Served the pasta on a platter, then placed the scallops and lobster on top for contrast.

Middle of the week -- Pan seared Halibut with lime and parsley, and greek salad.
Make a greek salad as you deem fit (I prefer mine without lettuce). Dry your halibut salt and pepper, and sear in a hot pan.  After you flip it splash with some lime juice, and minced parsley and top with a pat of butter.

New Years Eve -- Shrimp Cocktails and Fennel seed flavoured risotto with asparagus and king crab meat.
Shrimp Cocktails do as per hundreds of recipes that already exist.  For the risotto, I steeped a couple of table spoons of fennel seeds in the broth that I used for the risotto.  Prepare the risotto per your favourite method.  When the risotto was 3/4 done I added chopped asparagus, so that is was al dente when the risotto is done.  I mixed cooked king crab leg meat just at serving time.

While I do enjoy good food, during the holidays I try to do it a little better.

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PS: Here's hopin' the food in 2011 is as good as 2010. In the new year I'll try to remember to take some photos before I dig in.

Scallops in Calvados

Over Xmas I picked up a couple of bags of U12 count Canadian Scallops.  Yes they were frozen, but they did have a fairly low water weight so it wasn't too bad.  One batch went into Xmas Eve dinner with friends and the other batch was eaten at home with my girlfriend.

• 6 scallops
  
• 1 shallot finely diced
  
• 1 clove garlic minced
  
• 1/4 cup calvados
  
• couple pats of ice cold butter
  
• Salt and Pepper to taste
  

Cooking scallops is not a nearly as difficult as Hell's Kitchen seems to make it.  You do need a good skillet and a hot flame, but it shouldn't be rocket science. To brown anything, it needs to be "dry" so blot all excess moisture off of the room temperature scallops, I placed mine between a few sheets of paper towel, about 15 minutes before I needed them.  Put the skillet on the flame and get it smoking hot. Season the scallops with salt and pepper¹. Add an oil with a high smoke point, I have been using grape seed oil. Once the oil is smoking place the scallops in the pan.  Don't touch them, don't move them, until they have got a nice golden crust, around 2 minutes for my U12s.  Flip them and wait until the scallop is just turned opaque.  Remove them from the heat and place them on a plate to rest for a moment while you prepare the sauce.

In the same pan add the shallots and garlic, once the shallots are translucent, deglaze the pan with the calvados, and reduce by half.  Wisk in a couple pats of butter to make a nice rich creamy sauce.  If there is any liquid from the resting scallops whisk that into the sauce.  Place 3 scallops per person on a plate and sauce.   The night I made this, I served it on a bed of seasoned quinoa, and a side greek salad.

For me the sweet apple flavour of the calvados goes nicely with the sweetness of the scallops.

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¹ I've resorted to fine pre-ground pepper, because out of my pepper mill the pepper is course and it feels gritty on the scallops when you eat them.

Hummus Recipe de Gregorio

There are a large number of hummus recipes floating on the net, and when you find one you like, use it. Here is my general spin on it

• 2 14oz cans chic peas A.K.A garbanzo beans
• 1 12oz bottle of tahini 
• 1/2 the liquid from 1 can of chic peas
• 4 lemons juiced 
• 6 cloves garlic
• 4 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 1 tsp kosher salt 
• 1 tsp black pepper
• 1/4 tsp cumin

Take everything throw it in your food processor, pulse it a couple times to get stuff mixed, and then purée until smooth.  If it's a bit dry add a splash more EVO or liquid from the chic peas.  Taste and adjust lemon juice, or garlic, or salt, or pepper etc. to your taste.  I like mine garlicky and lemony, but do as you see fit. Server with  pita chips, toasted bread, tortilla chips, or pretty much anything you like to dip.  If you have the time and inclination you could pass it through a chinoise to get a really smooth purée, but a little fibre and texture didn't hurt anyone.

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Why is Pork and Pineapple Bad?

I was watching the Next Iron Chef on the tele and one of the judges (Simon Majumdar) keeps complaining about having pork marinaded or in association with pineapple. While I understand that pineapple contains bromelain and bromelain is a powerful meat tenderizer, bromelain can be denatured by heating it before marinading the meat with it.

I wonder if the chefs used papin (from papaya), ficain (from figs), or actinadain (kiwi), would the judges complain as loudly.  Conversely if they were marinading a tougher cut of meat instead of the prime grade cuts, would the judges react with such harsh words as "the meat was mushy."

I like mixing some sweet with my meats when I stir fry or make salads; grilled pineapple is very high on my favourite additions, and figs in the top five.  Granted, in grilled pineapple, the bromelain has been denatured, and I don't use "tender" cuts of meat for stir fries, but I'm not a world famous food critic, or chef.

I'll continue eating tacos al pastuer, sweet and sour pineapple pork, I like the flavour, and can accept what ever minor textural change there might be....

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Poblano & Cheese Mashed Potatoes.

When I'm not doing brown butter mashed potatoes, I mix it up with doing a Roasted Poblano and Cheese mashed Potatoes

• 2 lbs Yukon Gold Potatoes 
• 1 Roasted Poblano peeled seeded and chopped 
• 5 Cloves Roasted Garlic 
• 4 oz Sharp Cheddar Cheese Grated 
• 4 oz Monterrey Jack Cheese Grated 
• 4 oz Sour Cream
• Salt and Pepper to taste

Apple Pear Cranberry Pistachio Crisp

The best part about fall, is the bounty of fresh seasonal fruits: pears, apples, berries, and now that my flat has cooled off I can fire up the oven.  The crowning jewel to my Sunday dinner was an Apple-Pear-Cranberry-Pistachio Crisp, with a dollop of Häagan Daas Dulce de Leche Ice Cream.

For me crisps tend to be more organic, and seldom do I have an exact recipe because I just haven't been that disciplined, and I want to see where my mood and my fruit takes me.

Brown Butter Mashed Potatoes With Roast Garlic and Goat Cheese

I was listening to The Vinyl Cafe on CBC Radio, and Stuart McLean and company were in PEI.  One thing PEI is known for in Canada is Potatoes, so another PEI son Chef Michael Smith, was a guest and made the Official Vinyl Cafe dish, Brown Butter Mashed Potatoes.   Yummy, but I decided to kick them up a notch.

• 2 lbs Yukon Gold Potatoes
• 1 Stick Butter
• 5 Cloves Roasted Garlic 
• 4 Oz Goat's Milk Cheese
• Salt & Pepper To Taste
• Splash of Cream
• Couple of Green Onions Minced for garnish.

I prefer the butteriness of Yukon Gold Potatoes, but you can use any good waxy potato.  While the Potatoes are boiling, you can brown the butter and roast the garlic.  Mix everything together and mash, adjust the salt and pepper to your preference. If things are a little thick or no smooth enough (your preference) add a splash of cream.  I add the whites of the green onions into the potatoes and top with the greens as a garnish.  The Michael Smith Recipe has a splash of nutmeg as well, but I wasn't feeling that so I didn't add it (this time). 

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Eating Internationally -- Staying home

Last evening my friend and I had a wonderful light meal after having shopped a couple of my favourite stores here in Edmonton

• Paddy's International Cheese Market
• Italian Centre Shop

so we made ourselves a nice cheese and terrine (aka pate) plate.

• Wild Boar and Apricot Terrine (Paddy's -- Alberta + BC)
• Duck and Orange Terrine ( Paddy's -- Alberta + unknown)
• Oka Cheese  (Paddy's --Quebec)
• Morbier Cheese (Paddy's -- France)
• Gruyere Cheese (Paddy's -- Switzerland)
• Manchego Cheese (Paddy's -- Spain)
• Mango & Papaya Cheese (Paddy's -- unknown)
• Bocconcini Cheese with Olive oil and balsamic vinegar ( Italian Centre -- Canada + Italy)
• California Stuffed Olives  (Italian Centre -- California)
• Sour Dough Bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar ( Italian Centre -- Canada + Italy)
• Polish Garlic Dill Pickles (Italian Centre -- Poland)
• Green Figs (Italian Centre -- California)
• French Grainy Mustard (Italian Centre -- France) 

In  Paddy's, I thought the papaya mango cheese was going to be a bit too sweet, but it really went nicely with the terrines. 

I chose the Polish Garlic Dills, when I couldn't find any "good" French Cornichons, everyone only had sweet cornichons, so I picked something with a tarter flavour.  The California Stuffed Olives, are marinated almond stuff olives, great texture and flavour, which brought some bitterness to the plate.

We sliced things up into managable sizes, drizzled the olive oil and balsamic vinegar over the bocconcini, and bread.  Poured ourselves a nice glass of Spanish red wine had a very yummy and satisfying meal. 

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Quinoa Salad: A cold quinoa salad recipe similar to a waldorf salad.

Quinoa is a South American cereal grain that has become a regular staple in my pantry. While I cook it many ways now, but originally while I was learning about the cereal I found this salad, which has become a favourite.

1 cup water
1 cup unsweetened apple juice
3/4 tsp. cinnamon
1 cup quinoa, well rinsed and drained
2 large apples, diced
1 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup dried cranberries or dried blueberries
1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts or pecans or hazelnuts
2 tablespoons toasted salted pumpkin seeds (optional)
1 cup non-fat vanilla yogurt
Salt to taste

Read more at Suite101: Quinoa Salad: A cold quinoa salad recipe similar to a waldorf salad. http://healthycooking.suite101.com/article.cfm/quinoa_salad#ixzz0yImmtRKu

I started with the original recipe, but over time have evolved it.  First I always use salted water and unsweetened apple juice; secondly I've upped the cinnamon.  The original asked for red apples, I always prefer a tart apple like a granny smith, but a honey crisp or a fuji would be a nice choice as well.  Normally there are dried cranberries in my pantry, sometimes I have dried blueberries instead, I even occasionally do it as a half and half.  Similar for the nuts whichever toasted salted nuts you have in your pantry chop them up and use them.  I've also added some pumpkin seeds for additional texture and flavour.

If you have leftovers, they are great for breakfast.



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Black Bean Mango Salsa

Black bean and mango salsa, has become a regular addition to my side dishes; it goes nice with pork and chicken, it's even good on it's own as a salad.

1 can Black Beans
1 Large Mango
1 Medium Red Onion
1-3 cloves minced garlic
2-3 Jalapeños
2 Tbsp Cilantro
2 Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1-2 Limes Juiced
Salt and pepper to taste

Drain and clean the beans.  Dice the onion and mango approximately the same size as the beans.  Seed and mince the jalapeños and mix everything together.  I like my salsa tart so I use 2 limes.  Let stand for 5 minutes to let everything macerate.  Taste and adjust salt, pepper, herbs, and sweetness.  If you find it a little tart for your taste, or your mangos weren't quite as sweet, a splash of honey will take the edge off.


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Peruvian Halibut Ceviche

I've recently added a number of Peruvian dishes to my repertoire.  A popular favourite is a Peruvian style Ceviche.

1kg Sushi Grade skinless Halibut (Lenguado), or Sea Bass (Corvina)

Juice from 2 Oranges

Juice from 2 Lemons

Juice from 12-15 Limes 

1/8 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 Large Red Onion, quartered and thinly sliced  

5-10 cloves garlic minced 

Aji Rocoto or Aji Amarillo or Jalapeño Chiles or Habañero Chiles 

Flat Leaf (Italian) Parsley 

Cilantro

Salt and Pepper to Taste.

I always pay the premium for sushi grade fish just for the safety factor; I also prefer the firm white fishes to the oily fishes like mackerel or sardines.  Cut the fish into into bite sized cubes (3/4" or so), and place in a non-reactive container like a large ziplock bag or plastic bowl. Next, the olive oil and juice from all the citrus fruit into the bag and use enough lime to totally cover the fish. As a side note, I often add the lime zest from 1/2 the limes as well.  Add the slice onions, and garlic; I like a little more garlic.  I finely mince the stems of the parsley and cilantro because they add a lot of flavor, and save the leaves for garnishing the plate. I use about 1/4 cup total of the herb stems, you might adjust to your taste.  The choice of chiles (aji in Peruvian) is  trickier proposition.  Ideally you would use Aji Rocoto (chile manzano) or possibly Aji Amarillo (sorry it's the spanish page), but they are hard to find.  I use a mix of 3-5 jalapeños and 1/2->1 habañero seeded and minced.  Take special care when working with the habañero or you will be in for a world of hurt. Finally Salt and pepper to taste, probably 1 tablespoon of a nice sea salt or kosher salt, and about the same of fresh course ground pepper.  Seal the bag or cover the bowl and place in the fridge for 3 hours, agitating the works to ensure the flavours all macerate. Strain and serve, this should be enough for 6-8 people.

In Peru this would be served on a bed of butter lettuce with some sliced boiled potatoes or yams and corn on the cob.



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Blueberry Mango Peach Salad with Mango and Yogurt Dressing

While I can get fresh fruit and veg, I become less of a carnivore.  Latest yummy treat

2 Cups of Blueberries
2 Peaches
1 Mango

1/4 Cup Mango puree
1/4 Cup Vanilla Yogurt
splash of lemon/lime juice

Nice, easy, yummy; serve with a toasted bagel with cream cheese, and you be looking for seconds or thirds.  I'm so envious of people that can get this stuff fresh year round. I like my stuff a little more acidic so I add the lemon or lime juice because I like the tartness, nice offset for the sweetness of the fruit.


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Roast Pepper and Garlic Salad

Since I normally can get reasonably fresh bell peppers, I often make a roast pepper and garlic salad as a vegetable side dish when I cook other things.

• Variety of Coloured Bell Peppers 
• Variety of Chilli Peppers ( if desired)
• Slivered Garlic, to taste
• Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• Salt and Cracked Black Pepper to taste

Cut and seed  all the peppers and chillies into bite size pieces lightly coat with the olive oil and a light dusting of s&p, put them in a hot oven (425->450) or toss them under the broiler.  Give them a couple of stirs so they don't burn.  Once they are soft with a few pieces starting to brown and blister, mix them in a bowl with more olive oil, the slivered garlic and more s&p to taste.  I personally don't remove the skins from the peppers, because I don't mind the fibre.  The heat from the peppers will cause the garlic to perfume everything nicely.

Alternatively, char all the peppers and chillies on a fire, under the broiler etc.; place them in a bag to steam.  Once they have cooled a bit, you can remove the skin. Chop and seed the works and mix evo, crushed garlic and season with s&p.  

You can replace the slivered garlic with roast garlic if you have it on hand, but I usually don't.

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Sausage And Goat Cheese Stuffed Portobello Mushrooms

A new frequent favourite of mine is grilled or baked stuffed portobello mushroom, and I started looking for a rapid but simple filling.

In most grocery stores you can find packaged sausage meat, I usually grab a one of sweet italian and one of spicy italian.  I mix them together in a bowl, I then add a tablespoon or so of caraway seeds; a tablespoon or two of fennel seeds;  if I have it on hand some roast garlic, or some caramelized onions; occasionally I've added sun-dried tomatoes.  Totally depends on what I have on had or what flavours I'm craving.

Take a gilled and stemmed portobello mushroom, but try to leave the sides intact when you remove the gills, otherwise the cheese tends to escape. Add a teaspoon or so of goat cheese, and cover with the sausage mixture.  I like mine meaty so I'm more generous on the sausage, but when you cook your food do it your way.

I've baked them in a 425 oven, I've broiled them, barbecued them, I've even pan fried them.  It has totally depended on what else I have been doing.  As long as the sausage meat is cooked things are good.

Serve with some vegetables, or a salad, and a starch of your choice .... or use them for a "hamburger" the concept is what was important....


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Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes With Boccaccini Salad

I love summer, we are now starting to see good fresh produce, and the street markets are open so you can even get some of the local gems.  I recently scored some heirloom cherry tomatoes (silly me didn't take a snap... sorry :( ).  I headed to Spinnelli's (AKA the Italian Centre) and scored a fresh large boccaccini, some fresh basil and made me one yummy salad.

Anchovie Pasta Sauce di Papa Joe

Many years ago I dated an Italian girl and became part of the family.  Every special occasion or anytime Papa Joe had a hankering for it, he made this awesome little quick sauce with anchovies.  His kids didn't want to touch it with a hundred foot pole, but I was all over it.  He loved me, because I would try pretty much anything he put on a plate in front of me.

• Anchovy fillets (in a pinch anchovy paste)
• Good Olive Oil 
• Garlic, Minced
• Cremini mushrooms, sliced
• Crushed tomatoes 
• Red pepper flakes to taste